Levi's New Releases: Selvedge 201 and 501

Hot on the heels of their end-of-the-spring sale, Levi's has stocked their web site with some of the new offerings for the colder half of this year. The most compelling items in my eyes are the selvage update of the 501 and the newly re-introduced, non-LVC version of the 201. And more good news: they're both available for the very non-LVC price of $98.00.

Firstly a short history lesson: Way back in the 1870s, after hearing of miners complain of pockets ripping off of their pants in rough working conditions, Loeb (Levi) Strauss, the brains of the operation, and Jacob Davis, the money man, got a patent for using rivets to secure pockets to clothing. The American blue jean is born. The Number One overall was the first model introduced by LS&Co. This later became known as the 501 model and featured a leather patch. Shortly thereafter, a second,  budget-type model, known as the Number Two overall was introduced (later known as the 201) and featured a linen patch to differentiate it from the higher-end Number One. The primary difference between the two is that the Number Two had a lighter weight fabric than the original Number One.

Levi's has essentially offered the 501 since day one in one form or another but the 201 has seen a wax and wane phenomenon, being released maybe two times in the past ten years under Levi's LVC (Levi's Vintage Clothing) line. The current model isn't exactly faithful to the original model, featuring five pockets instead of four (the originals only had one rear pocket) but it is a nice nod to a bygone era and the history of Levi's as a brand.

In these two first photos, you can clearly see the differences between the modern 201 "Workwear Jeans" and what we've become accustomed to with the 501 and every iteration thereafter (510, 511, 514, etc.). The 201s feature a functional cinch back, suspender (aka brace) buttons and back pocket rivets. The fit appears to be even more generous than that of the 501s although I cannot confirm this fact. It isn't even apparent whether or not the selvedge denim is sanforized or not. I will inquire at Levi's HQ to find out more details. The Levi's site seems a bit reluctant to divulge details concerning the origins/quality/weight of it's denim. I would guess that the 201 is of the same weight as the 501 based upon the pictures but you never can tell for sure. The fact that the 201s are only available in a 30 or 32 inch inseam suggest that they don't shrink very much (although this is purely conjecture).

The selvedge 501s appear to be everything you've come to expect only Levi's is jumping on the 'All-Selvedge-Everything' bandwagon (which certainly makes everything better). In all seriousness though, if you are a large-thighed man, this is about the best pair of sub-100 doll-hair selvedge denim you could hope for in my (admittedly Levi's fanboy) humble opinion. Or hell, if you a regularly-sized-thigh person with a reverence for Levi's and don't mind a bit of extra fabric, these are your high-quality, raw denim heritage jeans.

As a freak of a fan of 501s, I might have to buy this pair even though I have way too much denim already. Maybe after I get a little more info on the fabric. It is already clear that they are not constructed in the U.S. ($98 price tag) and the obligatory "Imported" listed as the country of origin on the website supports this.

Hopefully more info to follow. It'd be nice if the new 501s and 201s were cut from selvedge denim from the infamous Cone Mills of North Carolina...

*Edit - Levi's has updated the site to include a few more details about these two pairs of denim. The 201's rise is 1.25" bigger than that of the 501. (12.5" vs. 11.25") and the circumference of the leg opening on the 201 is a half inch larger than on the 501. The 501s are also shrink-to-fit but the 201 is not specified as such so I have to assume that they will not shrink much (they're Sanforized). The message I got back from Levi's when I inquired originally about all the details was painfully general and didn't answer any of my questions. I'll keep pressing to see what I can find out.

Red Dead Revolution

I've spoke of the power of bright color (red) before. Since then, the weather has warmed and red has become my go-to color for accenting and bold statements, threads-wise.  When wearing a color as bold as red, it would be wise to take care in not overdoing it. I generally adhere to the rule of having one brightly colored item in an outfit or two if one of them is smaller (like a watchstrap or pocket square). But hey, if you're a boss, try more. The problem is that having two many items of matching color make you look a bit clown-like. Try varying the colors or use different shades of the same color.

Anyway, I've put together five spring/summer looks, each incorporating something red to give you a feel of how I get down with red.

*Edit* In response to numerous requests, I've added where all the stuff I'm wearing came from. Yes, I do have an unhealthy amount of M+O. Their mediums fit me perfectly and they're constantly having crazy sales because they're closing up shop soon.

Some good slammin' around town weekend gear.
Shirt: Gap
Shorts: Gap
Watch: Darch
Shoes: Nunn Bush

Dressing it down a bit more. 
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Shorts: Gap
Shoes: Converse Jack Purcell

Something I'd wear going out on a cold spring evening.
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Sweatshirt: Martin+Osa
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

Pretty sure I've worn this to work. *Bonus: red brick soles
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Jacket: J. Crew
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Tricker's

Barbecue or picnic threads
Shirt: Land's End
Pants: Kenneth Cole
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

Who wears short shorts?

I guess I do.

Summer is pretty much in full swing, at least in my neck of the woods. And here in Chicago, there are days that are unbearably hot in long pants. Shorts are necessary for a man living in a climate capable of generating upwards of 90 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature on a regular basis in the summertime. When you are a gentleman possessing thighs with large mass, the last thing you should do is completely cover your legs' upper half.

If you've worked to have muscular legs, I implore you to consider a short that ends substantially above the knee. Now I'm not advising that you sport briefs in public, just something that will flatter your legs and not remind me of the billowing, below-the-knee shorts trend of the past decade. It highly depends on the *length* of your thigh but generally, a single-digit inseam (in inches) will get you there. Personally, this translates to a 7-inch inseam (I am 6'2" with a comparatively long torso). For you it may be different. Five, six, seven, nine, and eleven inch inseam shorts are all readily available.

The good thing about shorts from all the major players is that they're usually cut pretty full and almost never "slim" (unless otherwise specified). If possible, get to a store to try them on to be sure. Assuming you fit into them, a pair of shorts is gonna look better on you than on a dude with peg legs. Also, if you have a pair of old pants that fit you well through the thigh, another option is to make your own shorts. I've done so with an old pair of navy corduroy pants to great success.

Although photos of me in shorts are in short supply (I should be able to find some daylight soon to snap a few and show ya'll), I've hunted down a few commercially available (and affordable) options and will list them here. Seriously, if you're paying over $100 for shorts (such nonsense does exist) you may need to rethink a few things.

Land's End

The shortest, at a 6" inseam, and also the least expensive, at $29.50, this short from Land's End has a traditional fit, "roomy" and is available in seven colors. Go with the pictured light khaki, stone, navy, gray, granite, commando green, or satisfy your inner prep with Nantucket red.

J. Crew

J. Crew also has you covered with a pair of 7" inseam shorts available in a variety of earthtones as well as blue and Nantucket red. They're made of two-ply cotton twill and are broken in so you don't have to worry about stiff chino fabric in the hot summer months.

Rugby

For you lankier gents, Rugby's University Chino short has a longer 9" inseam with the typical plethora of color options (ultra-prep included). You do get a nice little button-down flap change pocket in addition to a hook and bar-tab front closure.

 Patagonia

If you prefer a more rugged option, Patagonia has a great pair of 7 inch inseam shorts with a regular fit. Made of 10oz. organic cotton twill, these shorts were designed with the rock climber in mind. If you value durability and don't mind the heavier weight, the Stand Up shorts are right up your alley.



 These are just a few affordable options I could scrounge up, many other options are abound. Get yourself some shorts, then get out and give your pegs some sun. Also, if you have a minute, read the Wikipedia article on shorts, it is hilarious.

Epaulet Hoyt: Delivered

Well, they've arrived. If you missed it, I profiled them last week to whet your appetite and now I have the goods to evaluate. My initial impressions are very good. I've only worn them for a few hours total around the house to break them in and these jeans fit me wonderfully.

First wear, as compared to my A.P.C. Rescues, the Hoyts fit way less like jeggings and more like actually-fitting jeans. They were a bit tight at first but they've since relaxed a bit, as expected with any denim.

The difference in the weight of the fabric is quite noticeable (12.25oz. vs. 14oz. for the Rescues). They are lighter but don't give me the feeling that they're going to fall apart. Construction seems well executed and it really shows in the details: There are gunmetal rivets and donut buttons (four total buttons if you're wondering), a solid diagonal bar tack on each corners of the back pockets, and a handsome embossed leather patch above the rear right pocket (all pictured below).

I am quite satisfied with the fit and quality of this denim. Epaulet gets the TBTYH stamp of approval. And also, considering that they are made in the US with materials of US origin, $145 is a pretty good value.

I apologize for the quality of the fit photo. There really isn't much light in my kitchen at 8:00pm.

Epaulet Hoyt: Here Comes A New Challenger!

I've talked about my challenges fitting into denim before. But that long wait has Epaulet has completed their new cut of jean, the Hoyt.  They've updated their beautiful Smith model to include more room in the seat and thighs (exactly what I need), expressly designed for men who are "into things like cycling, rowing, crossfit, etc." I'm going to do a paper comparison to the only other pair of selvage denim I own, A.P.C. Rescues (that is until my Hoyts are delivered).

Pictured on the left (A.P.C. Rescues on the right), the Hoyt is cut from a 12.25oz. natural line selvage from the Cone Mills White Oak plant in North Carolina. By comparison, the A.P.C.s feature 14oz. red line selvage denim from (I don't actually know). Both have contrast stitching, five pockets, and rivets in all the usual places. I think the kicker is that the Epaulet jeans are manufactured in the United States, whereas the A.P.C.s are manufactured in Macau, a territory of China. While this shouldn't really say much in terms of comparative quality (a debate for another time), as an American, I feel great supporting workers here in the US, both in the textile plant the denim was produced and also in the shop the full product was constructed in.

But enough of the details, what of the fit? Certainly the most important part of the modern jean should not be neglected.  Well, I can speak to the fit of the A.P.C.s, which are 'vanity sized'. This is the annoying part of buying A.P.C. denim. Maybe it has to do with the fact that they are generally unisex jeans but the general rule is to size down two to three from your normal size. For me this meant a size 30 in A.P.C. Any larger and I run the risk of the waistband stretching to an abnormal proportions. Denim is generally known to stretch out or relax after wear but it seems A.P.C. is especially known for this.  Seriously, when I first tried my Rescues on, I could not physically button the top two buttons. Now, one year later, the waistband is about one inch too big (while the thighs remain pretty tight). This is my dilemma. On paper, let's compare the A.P.C. Rescue's sizing to the Epaulet Hoyt's (which Epaulet recommends you buy true-to-size, in my case a 33):

*Total rise on the Hoyts were calculated from an average of the front and rear rise, which was specified on the product page.

As you can see, the Hoyts have a bit more room in the upper legs than the Rescues.  I am quite interested in the full extra inch in the thigh and the higher rise. We'll see how it works out when I get my hands on the EPs. Expect a full write-up with fit pics and comparison to the A.P.C.s. I know from experience that men with larger legs have very limited options when it comes to quality denim and I am happy to share my experience for the betterment of my large-thighed brethren.

Fresh White Summer Sneaks

I've been on the prowl for some clean white canvas sneakers for this summer and my oh my, there are many options.  I spent a little time today perusing Zappos for some good choice footwear. This is what I came up with.  For the purposes of this post, I'm just rounding up the whitest, simplest shoes under $60. You can get pretty nutty with white sneakers upwards of $300 but I hardly find value in a canvas shoe you're going to trash anyway.  Also, this is by no means an exhaustive list, only what I found during a quick glance at Zappos.  In no particular order:

Vans Authentic Core Classics - $42.00

The gold standard according to some of the cool blogs and skater kids.  This shoe, in 'True White', features a flexible canvas upper with a gum rubber sole and one of the simplest designs you'll see.  The price is always right as well.

Vans Authentic Organic - $39.90

Just in time for Earth Day, feel good about the enivronment by getting a version of the before mentioned Authentic.  The upper is made of 100% organic canvas and the sole is made from 20% recycled rubber.  I actually really just love the colorway. They're on sale at Zappos but there are limited sizes available.

Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Slim Ox - $50.00

A lower-profile version of the classic Chucks, this sneak has a canvas upper and liner with a lightly padded footbed.  The standard rubber sole keeps you planted to the street and the red pinstripe sets you out from the crowd.

Tretorn Krona Linen - $58.50 

While not canvas, I figure linen is close enough in line with a summer shoe material that it can be reasonably included.  This shoe is pretty low, almost slipper-like.  The colorway may seem a bit subdued at first glance but make sure you check out the other side (WARNING: splash of wacky color). The Swedes did right by me with this one.

Adidas Originals P-Sole - $39.95

This offering from Adidas is low profile and lightweight (9.0 oz. per sz 8.5 shoe).  It features a vulcanized canvas upper, rubber sole, and a design based on the Eberhard Schöller table tennis shoe of old.  The association with Adidas and the three stripe detail makes this a bit of a sportier option.

Converse Jack Purcell CP - $55.00

A slightly modified version of the 1930's badminton classic, the Jack Purcell CP has got everything you need and more.  Canvas upper and rubber sole come standard along with Jack Purcell's signature on the heel and the signature "smile" on the toe.

Sperry Top-Sider Striper Lace - $59.95

This Sperry sneaker is like a luxury version of the Vans Authentic; it has more padding and cushioning than it's bare-bones younger brother.  It retains the razor-cut tread on the sole just like Sperry's deck shoes, for wet and dry traction.

Supra Thunder Lo - $52.00

I haven't even heard of Supra until yesterday, in fact, although they seem to have some nice footwear.  Direct from the product description, this is a "classic low top design".  No bones about this shoe, it is clean and simple and doesn't mess around with any adornments.

Pro-Keds Royal Lo Canvas - $44.95

If you're looking for a similar shoe to the Supra with a splash of color, the Pro-Keds are for you.  They have a rubber toe and sole with the requisite canvas upper.  They also feature a removable padded footbed, which is kind of nice.  I just wish Pro-Keds made their Royal CVO in white, but alas.  *Edit - They do!  Although they don't appear to be in production anymore. Thanks, Lawrence!

Have you got a go-to fresh white sneak that you want to share?  Drop me a line in the comments below.

Gym Style

Hey ya'll, sorry I've been off the radar for a while.  I took a much needed vacation.

One way to curse one's self with the affliction of thighs bigger than one's head is to exercise.  Cycling, rowing, and weightlifting (among other activities) will all make the muscles in your legs hypertrophy.  I happen to lift weights regularly (I am a follower of Stronglifts).  Since most discussion about style addresses times when you're out and about (work, school, weekend, beach, etc...), I wanted to see if you're on your game in the gym too.

I know that you're thinking, "Why should I care what I look like in the gym? I'm gonna be all sweaty anyway and plus you're there to put in work, not look good."  If you think about it, the gym is no different than any other place you might visit during the day.  There is a chance you'll meet a new friend and you don't want to risk looking like a bum and blowing a first impression out of the water.  Looking sharp while wearing functional clothing for exercise is not difficult to do, either.  My only bit of advice is to keep it simple.

For weightlifting, to the right is what I wear almost every day.  Nautica white cotton undershirt, Mizuno polyester volleyball shorts, low profile Nike Dri-fit socks (days when I deadlift I substitute Adidas knee-high soccer socks), and Adidas Sambas.  The whole outfit is simple and classic whilst retaining functionality.  The cotton t-shirt is what you want between a barbell and your skin while backsquating because it provides enough friction so that the bar doesn't slide.  Something like Under Armor will give you problems with slipping bars.  The above-the-knee polyester shorts are nice and breathable and don't get in the way of lifts where your knees are bending.  The Sambas are actually excellent weight lifting shoes due to their flat and incompressible sole, providing pure power transfer during squats and deadlifts.

Granted, this isn't anything fancy. But I don't want it to be.  Obviously you may need different threads for different activities.  Just keep it similar, classic, and functional and you'll look solid.  You know those cardio bunnies are watching; just stay away from the ones wearing makeup.