6.13.2010

Red Dead Revolution

I've spoke of the power of bright color (red) before. Since then, the weather has warmed and red has become my go-to color for accenting and bold statements, threads-wise.  When wearing a color as bold as red, it would be wise to take care in not overdoing it. I generally adhere to the rule of having one brightly colored item in an outfit or two if one of them is smaller (like a watchstrap or pocket square). But hey, if you're a boss, try more. The problem is that having two many items of matching color make you look a bit clown-like. Try varying the colors or use different shades of the same color.

Anyway, I've put together five spring/summer looks, each incorporating something red to give you a feel of how I get down with red.

*Edit* In response to numerous requests, I've added where all the stuff I'm wearing came from. Yes, I do have an unhealthy amount of M+O. Their mediums fit me perfectly and they're constantly having crazy sales because they're closing up shop soon.

Some good slammin' around town weekend gear.
Shirt: Gap
Shorts: Gap
Watch: Darch
Shoes: Nunn Bush

Dressing it down a bit more. 
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Shorts: Gap
Shoes: Converse Jack Purcell

Something I'd wear going out on a cold spring evening.
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Sweatshirt: Martin+Osa
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

Pretty sure I've worn this to work. *Bonus: red brick soles
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Jacket: J. Crew
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Tricker's

Barbecue or picnic threads
Shirt: Land's End
Pants: Kenneth Cole
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

6.06.2010

Who wears short shorts?

I guess I do.
Summer is pretty much in full swing, at least in my neck of the woods. And here in Chicago, there are days that are unbearably hot in long pants. Shorts are necessary for a man living in a climate capable of generating upwards of 90 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature on a regular basis in the summertime. When you are a gentleman possessing thighs with large mass, the last thing you should do is completely cover your legs' upper half.
If you've worked to have muscular legs, I implore you to consider a short that ends substantially above the knee. Now I'm not advising that you sport briefs in public, just something that will flatter your legs and not remind me of the billowing, below-the-knee shorts trend of the past decade. It highly depends on the *length* of your thigh but generally, a single-digit inseam (in inches) will get you there. Personally, this translates to a 7-inch inseam (I am 6'2" with a comparatively long torso). For you it may be different. Five, six, seven, nine, and eleven inch inseam shorts are all readily available.
The good thing about shorts from all the major players is that they're usually cut pretty full and almost never "slim" (unless otherwise specified). If possible, get to a store to try them on to be sure. Assuming you fit into them, a pair of shorts is gonna look better on you than on a dude with peg legs. Also, if you have a pair of old pants that fit you well through the thigh, another option is to make your own shorts. I've done so with an old pair of navy corduroy pants to great success.
Although photos of me in shorts are in short supply (I should be able to find some daylight soon to snap a few and show ya'll), I've hunted down a few commercially available (and affordable) options and will list them here. Seriously, if you're paying over $100 for shorts (such nonsense does exist) you may need to rethink a few things.
Land's End
The shortest, at a 6" inseam, and also the least expensive, at $29.50, this short from Land's End has a traditional fit, "roomy" and is available in seven colors. Go with the pictured light khaki, stone, navy, gray, granite, commando green, or satisfy your inner prep with Nantucket red.









J. Crew
J. Crew also has you covered with a pair of 7" inseam shorts available in a variety of earthtones as well as blue and Nantucket red. They're made of two-ply cotton twill and are broken in so you don't have to worry about stiff chino fabric in the hot summer months.






Rugby
For you lankier gents, Rugby's University Chino short has a longer 9" inseam with the typical plethora of color options (ultra-prep included). You do get a nice little button-down flap change pocket in addition to a hook and bar-tab front closure.










 Patagonia
If you prefer a more rugged option, Patagonia has a great pair of 7 inch inseam shorts with a regular fit. Made of 10oz. organic cotton twill, these shorts were designed with the rock climber in mind. If you value durability and don't mind the heavier weight, the Stand Up shorts are right up your alley.



 These are just a few affordable options I could scrounge up, many other options are abound. Get yourself some shorts, then get out and give your pegs some sun. Also, if you have a minute, read the Wikipedia article on shorts, it is hilarious.

5.12.2010

Epaulet Hoyt: Delivered

Well, they've arrived. If you missed it, I profiled them last week to whet your appetite and now I have the goods to evaluate. My initial impressions are very good. I've only worn them for a few hours total around the house to break them in and these jeans fit me wonderfully.
First wear, as compared to my A.P.C. Rescues, the Hoyts fit way less like jeggings and more like actually-fitting jeans. They were a bit tight at first but they've since relaxed a bit, as expected with any denim.
The difference in the weight of the fabric is quite noticeable (12.25oz. vs. 14oz. for the Rescues). They are lighter but don't give me the feeling that they're going to fall apart. Construction seems well executed and it really shows in the details: There are gunmetal rivets and donut buttons (four total buttons if you're wondering), a solid diagonal bar tack on each corners of the back pockets, and a handsome embossed leather patch above the rear right pocket (all pictured below).
I am quite satisfied with the fit and quality of this denim. Epaulet gets the TBTYH stamp of approval. And also, considering that they are made in the US with materials of US origin, $145 is a pretty good value.
I apologize for the quality of the fit photo. There really isn't much light in my kitchen at 8:00pm.

5.04.2010

Epaulet Hoyt: Here Comes A New Challenger!

I've talked about my challenges fitting into denim before. But that long wait has Epaulet has completed their new cut of jean, the Hoyt.  They've updated their beautiful Smith model to include more room in the seat and thighs (exactly what I need), expressly designed for men who are "into things like cycling, rowing, crossfit, etc." I'm going to do a paper comparison to the only other pair of selvage denim I own, A.P.C. Rescues (that is until my Hoyts are delivered).
Pictured on the left (A.P.C. Rescues on the right), the Hoyt is cut from a 12.25oz. natural line selvage from the Cone Mills White Oak plant in North Carolina. By comparison, the A.P.C.s feature 14oz. red line selvage denim from (I don't actually know). Both have contrast stitching, five pockets, and rivets in all the usual places. I think the kicker is that the Epaulet jeans are manufactured in the United States, whereas the A.P.C.s are manufactured in Macau, a territory of China. While this shouldn't really say much in terms of comparative quality (a debate for another time), as an American, I feel great supporting workers here in the US, both in the textile plant the denim was produced and also in the shop the full product was constructed in.

But enough of the details, what of the fit? Certainly the most important part of the modern jean should not be neglected.  Well, I can speak to the fit of the A.P.C.s, which are 'vanity sized'. This is the annoying part of buying A.P.C. denim. Maybe it has to do with the fact that they are generally unisex jeans but the general rule is to size down two to three from your normal size. For me this meant a size 30 in A.P.C. Any larger and I run the risk of the waistband stretching to an abnormal proportions. Denim is generally known to stretch out or relax after wear but it seems A.P.C. is especially known for this.  Seriously, when I first tried my Rescues on, I could not physically button the top two buttons. Now, one year later, the waistband is about one inch too big (while the thighs remain pretty tight). This is my dilemma. On paper, let's compare the A.P.C. Rescue's sizing to the Epaulet Hoyt's (which Epaulet recommends you buy true-to-size, in my case a 33):
*Total rise on the Hoyts were calculated from an average of the front and rear rise, which was specified on the product page.

As you can see, the Hoyts have a bit more room in the upper legs than the Rescues.  I am quite interested in the full extra inch in the thigh and the higher rise. We'll see how it works out when I get my hands on the EPs. Expect a full write-up with fit pics and comparison to the A.P.C.s. I know from experience that men with larger legs have very limited options when it comes to quality denim and I am happy to share my experience for the betterment of my large-thighed brethren.

4.22.2010

Fresh White Summer Sneaks

I've been on the prowl for some clean white canvas sneakers for this summer and my oh my, there are many options.  I spent a little time today perusing Zappos for some good choice footwear. This is what I came up with.  For the purposes of this post, I'm just rounding up the whitest, simplest shoes under $60. You can get pretty nutty with white sneakers upwards of $300 but I hardly find value in a canvas shoe you're going to trash anyway.  Also, this is by no means an exhaustive list, only what I found during a quick glance at Zappos.  In no particular order:

The gold standard according to some of the cool blogs and skater kids.  This shoe, in 'True White', features a flexible canvas upper with a gum rubber sole and one of the simplest designs you'll see.  The price is always right as well.



Just in time for Earth Day, feel good about the enivronment by getting a version of the before mentioned Authentic.  The upper is made of 100% organic canvas and the sole is made from 20% recycled rubber.  I actually really just love the colorway. They're on sale at Zappos but there are limited sizes available.




A lower-profile version of the classic Chucks, this sneak has a canvas upper and liner with a lightly padded footbed.  The standard rubber sole keeps you planted to the street and the red pinstripe sets you out from the crowd.




While not canvas, I figure linen is close enough in line with a summer shoe material that it can be reasonably included.  This shoe is pretty low, almost slipper-like.  The colorway may seem a bit subdued at first glance but make sure you check out the other side (WARNING: splash of wacky color). The Swedes did right by me with this one.



This offering from Adidas is low profile and lightweight (9.0 oz. per sz 8.5 shoe).  It features a vulcanized canvas upper, rubber sole, and a design based on the Eberhard Schöller table tennis shoe of old.  The association with Adidas and the three stripe detail makes this a bit of a sportier option.




A slightly modified version of the 1930's badminton classic, the Jack Purcell CP has got everything you need and more.  Canvas upper and rubber sole come standard along with Jack Purcell's signature on the heel and the signature "smile" on the toe.





This Sperry sneaker is like a luxury version of the Vans Authentic; it has more padding and cushioning than it's bare-bones younger brother.  It retains the razor-cut tread on the sole just like Sperry's deck shoes, for wet and dry traction.







Supra Thunder Lo - $52.00
I haven't even heard of Supra until yesterday, in fact, although they seem to have some nice footwear.  Direct from the product description, this is a "classic low top design".  No bones about this shoe, it is clean and simple and doesn't mess around with any adornments.






If you're looking for a similar shoe to the Supra with a splash of color, the Pro-Keds are for you.  They have a rubber toe and sole with the requisite canvas upper.  They also feature a removable padded footbed, which is kind of nice.  I just wish Pro-Keds made their Royal CVO in white, but alas.  *Edit - They do!  Although they don't appear to be in production anymore. Thanks, Lawrence!

Have you got a go-to fresh white sneak that you want to share?  Drop me a line in the comments below.

4.19.2010

Gym Style

Hey ya'll, sorry I've been off the radar for a while.  I took a much needed vacation.

One way to curse one's self with the affliction of thighs bigger than one's head is to exercise.  Cycling, rowing, and weightlifting (among other activities) will all make the muscles in your legs hypertrophy.  I happen to lift weights regularly (I am a follower of Stronglifts).  Since most discussion about style addresses times when you're out and about (work, school, weekend, beach, etc...), I wanted to see if you're on your game in the gym too.

I know that you're thinking, "Why should I care what I look like in the gym? I'm gonna be all sweaty anyway and plus you're there to put in work, not look good."  If you think about it, the gym is no different than any other place you might visit during the day.  There is a chance you'll meet a new friend and you don't want to risk looking like a bum and blowing a first impression out of the water.  Looking sharp while wearing functional clothing for exercise is not difficult to do, either.  My only bit of advice is to keep it simple.
For weightlifting, to the right is what I wear almost every day.  Nautica white cotton undershirt, Mizuno polyester volleyball shorts, low profile Nike Dri-fit socks (days when I deadlift I substitute Adidas knee-high soccer socks), and Adidas Sambas.  The whole outfit is simple and classic whilst retaining functionality.  The cotton t-shirt is what you want between a barbell and your skin while backsquating because it provides enough friction so that the bar doesn't slide.  Something like Under Armor will give you problems with slipping bars.  The above-the-knee polyester shorts are nice and breathable and don't get in the way of lifts where your knees are bending.  The Sambas are actually excellent weight lifting shoes due to their flat and incompressible sole, providing pure power transfer during squats and deadlifts.

Granted, this isn't anything fancy. But I don't want it to be.  Obviously you may need different threads for different activities.  Just keep it similar, classic, and functional and you'll look solid.  You know those cardio bunnies are watching; just stay away from the ones wearing makeup.

3.24.2010

Chino Blazer Roundup

If you've been keeping up, I recently did a profile on L.L. Bean Signature and Land's End Canvas.  The first match-up I covered was the chino blazer that both offered.  Scroll down to the previous post or click here to read it.  As I became more interested in the idea of a khaki blazer for spring (now a definite must in my eyes), I began to explore other options as well.  This is what I came up with.  I tried to keep it within the realm of financial possibility for the average gentleman.  All the reasonably stylish and available options I came across fell within the 140-250 dollar range (although the Land's End Canvas jacket was only $70 and the L.L. Bean offering was $135).

Martin+Osa
This simple three-button jacket from Martin+Osa could be just what you need for this spring and summer.  It features a slimmer modern cut, two working button holes on the cuffs, a half-lining patterned in what appears to be a white/green/red/black tartan.  The shell is 100% twill cotton and the lining is 100% cotton poplin.   This jacket has the fairly requisite front flap pockets, welted slash front breast pocket, and single back vent.  Not a bad pick for $140, especially when M+O is currently closing a bunch of stores and having sales nearly every other day.  Get into your local store to try one on if you can before they're gone.  I'd also bet you a beer that this is Paul's (of Components of Enthusiasm [on hiatus for now]) jam for sure.




Ralph Lauren Rugby
This slightly more keyed-up 3 roll 2 jacket from Rugby may be more up your alley.  It is fitted with what Rugby calls its "vintage style shorter and skinnier Newbury silhouette", featuring four working buttons on its cuff.  If you unbutton these buttons, you unveil one of the edgy details of this jacket: the lettering "Rugby A Game of Gentlemen" inside the cuff.  The other Rugby choice detail is the skull and bones logo on the underside of the collar.  Patch pockets all around and you've got yourself a solid chino option for this spring.  It's something I imagine young Angelo of Class Act sporting from time to time in the coming months.





Ralph Lauren Polo
Hey, this looks suspiciously similar to the last jacket!  Well, it's made by the same parent company, Ralph Lauren, and on the surface it appears to be just a more mature version of the previously badass jacket profiled above.  In fact, it has most of the same features, including the four working cuff buttons.  Look a bit closer though and you'll see that this coat has genuine mother of pearl buttons, no flaps on the pockets, or any of the "edgy" details, as with the Rugby.  However, in a perfectly understated way, the detail that makes this particular jacket stand out is the strawberry red undercollar.  All signs point to L.A.S. of Sartorially Inclined most likely to rock this armor.





J. Crew
While this jacket is definitely on the higher end, considering the quality it seems a good bet for under 250 dollars.  This two-button jacket is woven from cotton twill from the Crespi Mill in Italy.  The Ludlow cut is the most modern silhouette J. Crew offers, featuring a narrow lapel and a shorter cut.  Standard flap front pockets and flap front pockets but this joint is fully lined with what looks like *gasp* silk.  It has felt under the collar and non-functioning button holes on the cuffs (way to suck all the fun out of it, J. Crew). But seriously, although it is sold as a  separate, this is more of a *real* suit jacket than the others.  The matching pant is sold on the same page.  If Will from Momentum of Failure doesn't already have this on his back, it's probably in a UPS truck headed for Denver.


Outro: As for this roundup, along with the L.L. Bean Signature and Land's End Canvas options outlined previously, these are probably your best bets for chino blazers for this spring and summer.   Something of note concerning sizing: the Polo and J. Crew jackets are available in traditional suit jacket sizes (ie. 42R) whereas the lower-end pieces are a little more unpredictable with label-specific sizes (S, M, L, XL).  Cheers.

My apologies to any high-profile bloggers whose sensibilities may have been offended by this post; I'm just having fun.